On Day 162 of the Nowhere To Be Project we were given the chance to explore Lerwick, a small port town in the Shetland Islands of Scotland. The town itself is very, very small. However, by venturing out into the countryside on an included Viking tour we were able to learn about and meet some of the famed Shetland Ponies. They live idyllic and long lives roaming the vast countryside. What they lack in size, they make up with in spirit…so lovable and affectionate (reminded me of my Golden Retriever). Many families in the Shetlands bring their ponies inside their homes in inclement weather and I can totally see why!
Day 161 of the Nowhere To Be Project places us eleven days into our two week British Isles Explorer voyage aboard the Viking Sky. We docked in Invergorden and joined an optional tour to visit the battlefield of Culloden. The drive through the lush heather-covered rolling hills of the Scottish Highlands was so peaceful that the horror of what happened at Culloden on 16 April 1746 nearly escaped us. That is, until we stepped foot on it. Tombstones etched with clan names dot the grounds to mark the mass burial sites. We were told that after the battle, wives and mothers came to identify and bury their kinfolk only to be raped by the loyalists who had defeated the Jacobites so fiercely. Sadly, the humiliation didn’t end there. Following the battle, clans were no longer allowed to dress in their tartans and were not permitted to speak in their native tongue, Scots Gaelic. So many men died which wiped out many Highlanders clans. The Fraser clan was so depleted that men from outside the clan were offered twenty pounds to change their names to Fraser! Today’s visit was so moving, rivaling the time I spent on Omaha Beach in Normandy. Both are tricks of the mind…so much natural beauty, yet so incredibly tainted by the ignorance of war.
On Day 160 of the Nowhere To Be Project we did something we’ve never done before…hired a local for a private tour. After ten days of large group tours we needed a break and found a website (ToursByLocals.com) that matches local expert guides with travelers for custom day trips. For just over $600 we became the sole focus of our wonderful guide, Felicitas. At the outset we explained that St. Andrews was the primary goal for my husband. I asked that any extra time be focused on satisfying my Outlander curiosity (a.k.a obsession). We were met at the port and immediately whisked away for nine hours to fulfill our wishes through the eyes of a local.
We began in Falkland, Scotland. It is a tiny picturesque village filled with 17th and 18th century structures. Outlander used this location for the filming of Frank and Claire’s second honeymoon. Must sees include Bruce Fountain, Campbell’s Coffee House and The Covenanter Hotel.
We were then on to St. Andrews and the old course. This is a very busy area (mostly American tourists)! It is also a lovely seaside university town filled with lots of options for shopping, drinking and dining. My husband was thrilled to recreate a famous photograph of golf legend Jack Nicklaus on the Swilken bridge of the 18th hole.
The grand finale of our local’s tour took place in Culross, an adorable 17th century time warp of a town. Culross Castle is a must even if you’re not interested in the fact that it was used for Outlander filming (the outdoor stairs, the kitchen and the garden). While visiting, be sure to venture up the hill to view the abbey! It is remarkable!
I loved the experience of roaming with a local and would highly recommend it!❤️
As a huge fan of Diana Gabaldon’s Outlander series (and the corresponding television show), I was so excited to awake on Day 159 of the Nowhere To Be Project in the Orkney Islands of Scotland. While this particular place isn’t directly featured in the series, it is rumored that the author was very inspired by her visit to the Ring of Brodgar.
We spent the morning in Kirkwall and the afternoon in the countryside at the Ring of Brodgar, a Neolithic circle of standing stones.
Two remarkable things happened today. Firstly, I fell absolutely, completely and hopelessly in love with this tranquil corner of the world. There is literally water everywhere you look. There are very few people and countless rolling hills. Traffic isn’t a thing at all. Animals roam freely and with a year-round temperature of about 55 degrees it seems like utopia.
The second stellar thing that occurred today was our visit to the stones. To witness their perfect placement amidst the coast and land was breathtaking, especially when taking into account that they are 5000 years old! I begged my husband to push me through the stones so that I could go back in time to find my own Jamie Fraser, but sadly they were cordoned off. Oh well, heading for Lallybroch tomorrow. He’ll probably be waiting for me there, haha.
We were preparing to spend the day hiking at Knockan Crag in the Scottish Highlands when the captain announced that high winds would make tendering to Ullapool too dangerous. Therefore, Day 158 of the Nowhere To Be Project was spent entirely on board the Viking Sky. The cruise director followed the captain’s announcement with one of her own promising lobster macaroni and cheese by the pool as a way to fill the day. Many people took her up on the offer, but we used the time to wander the ship.
The Viking Sky is a lovely vessel. It is streamlined and comfortable. The common areas rarely seem crowded, probably due to the cozy nooks and crannies peppered throughout the ship. The decor is somehow muted and warm at the same time. No matter one’s mood, there is always an appropriate place on board to satisfy. Rest and relaxation can be found by either of the two pools, in the spa, at Wintergarden or the Explorer’s Lounge, and in the library. Entertainment looms in the ship’s two theaters, the atrium, the shops, the sports deck and in the game room. Dining options are located in the Restaurant, Manfredi’s, The Chef’s Table, World Café, the Pool Grill, Mamsen’s and via 24 hour room service. Conversation, drinks and dancing are also easy to access in the Aquavit Bar, the Explorer’s Lounge, the Pool Bar, the Viking Bar and at Torshavn, the ship’s version of a nightclub. With that brief rundown, I’m guessing that it’s fairly obvious to see that we had absolutely no trouble filling today’s unexpected hours at sea.
Day 156 of the Nowhere To Be Project began in Greenock, Scotland where the Viking Sky berthed for the day. Greenock is a sleepy town that once boasted a very prominent shipyard where 2/3 of the world’s ships originated. We meandered up from the water to the storied Greenock Cemetery and Crematorium because as any frequent traveler knows, headstones can usually spell out the history of a place. It is the most beautiful spot for eternal rest that I’ve ever seen and the maritime influence is evident on a large percentage of the ornamental moss-covered stones.
We headed to Glasgow, a 45 minute drive from Greenock, for the afternoon and set our sights on its medieval cathedral. Glasgow Cathedral is a breathtaking feat of early architecture. It was built by the Catholics, but now serves the largely Presbyterian population of Scotland. Like most old things, it has had several incarnations and the stained glass windows of the lower church quite literally tell the stories.
We managed to squeeze a lot into ten hours today, but these two stops spoke to us. Each shares the history of the people who gave a dot on the map meaning.
Day 21 of the Nowhere To Be Project was focused on organizing my upcoming travels. If you’ve read my blog before, you know that I absolutely live to travel. So, tomorrow I’m going to Denver for an overnight. The following week I’ll be in Florida for a wedding. At the end of April I’m heading to Sydney, Australia. From there it will be a month long RV trip across the country. August brings a journey by sea to Norway, Scotland, Ireland, England and Wales. I’ll close the year out in California, Oregon and Washington state. You never know though, I could sprinkle a few more in there if the opportunity (and a great deal) arises. After all, that is the whole point of the Nowhere To Be Project, taking advantage of all that an obligation-free life offers.
My point in organizing is to set personal goals for my travels to ensure I get the most out of my time in each spot. My husband’s primary travel goal for the past few years has been to hit every Major League Baseball park. He has just two to go and they will be knocked off in May. He suggested that I select something of interest to me to conquer on our adventures. I usually just focus on enjoying the local culture, but agreed to take on his challenge. I briefly considered haunted sights, cemeteries (for genealogy, of course) and museums. I’m super interested in all of those, but they just didn’t feel right for right now. After a bit of thought, I’ve decided to visit as many local farmer’s markets as possible. With a plant-based diet, I’m always searching for the freshest fruits and vegetables anyway, so this makes total sense. Above the practicality of my choice though, I’ve learned that farmer’s markets go way beyond produce. Many offer local delicacies, homemade delights and handmade treasures. In short, they are fascinating gathering places for passionate and talented locals. What touristy attraction could top that?
For me, the best part of traveling is getting to know the people who call each place “home” and I have a strong feeling that I’ll find them hanging out at farmer’s markets. With that, I’d like to ask (beg:-) each of you to reach out with the names of your favorite farmer’s markets. I promise to share a comprehensive list of each one I visit in an effort to spread the good news I find.